JWR’s Introductory Note: This is an update to a reply to a letter that I posted in SurvivalBlog back in February 2007. Given the recent spike in gasoline and diesel prices, I thought it would be apropos to re-post it.
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Every well-equipped retreat should have at least one “field expedient” 12 VDC fuel transfer pump. These pump rigs are popular with dirt bike, ATV, and snowmobile enthusiasts. They are very simple to construct. Here are the materials that you will need:
1 – An automobile or truck electric fuel pump. (The least expensive pumps come from automobile wrecking yards.)
2 – Roughly 15-foot lengths of heavy rubber hose–approved for use as fuel line–of the proper diameter for the fittings on the fuel pump.
2 – Stainless steel fuel line clamps. (Such as “Aero-Seal” brand, or similar, that are tightened with a screwdriver.)
15 to 20 ft. – 16 AWG (or heavier) gauge insulated two-conductor wire. (This will be the power cord for the pump.)
1 – “Cigarette Lighter” type male plug, available from any auto parts store, or via eBay. (Again, for the power cord for the pump.)
1 – Roll of black plastic electrician’s tape or better yet, some thermoplastic “heat shrink” tubing.
1 – Scrap of 3/8″ thick (or greater thickness) plywood, measuring roughly 16″ x 16″. (On which to mount the fuel pump.)
The construction method should be self-evident, based on the materials listed above. If you’d like, you can add an electrical switch to the power cord for convenience, but make sure that you get a high amperage switch that is rated for DC, and that you position the switch within a couple of feet of the dashboard plug so that the switch is inside your vehicle. That way, there is far less chance of generating a spark inside a gas vapor cloud.
If your vehicle uses an electric fuel pump, then I suggest that you use an identical pump to the one used in your vehicle as the basis for your transfer pump project. (If your vehicle uses an electric fuel pump.) That way, you will have spares on hand, in the event that your vehicle’s fuel pump or any portion of your fuel system’s flexible fuel lines ever fail. If your vehicle uses a mechanical fuel pump or one that is submerged in your fuel tank, then just use a generic 12 VDC fuel pump like the one pictured above. These are widely available via eBay or a wide range of online vendors. Just do a web search on “low-pressure 12V fuel pump.”
By the way, you can also add an “in-line” fuel filter to your fuel transfer pump rig. Following a theme, it is best to use a filter cartridge that is identical to that used in your vehicle. (Always think: “Spares and redundancy, spares and redundancy”, like a mantra.)
The square scrap of plywood will keep the transfer pump out of the mud or snow. It also provides a handy place to mount some large hooks, so that you will have a neat way to coil up the power cord and the fuel transfer hoses, for storage. A 15-foot length of hose should be able to reach any vehicle fuel tank, or even down into an underground tank.
There are commercially-made equivalents to this field fuel pump rig, but they cost more, and they won’t provide you with a spare compatible fuel pump, for if or when your vehicle’s original pump goes Tango Uniform.
Important Provisos:
1.) All of the usual common-sense precautions for handling gasoline and gas cans apply:
- Use only DOT-approved fuel containers.
- No sparks.
- No open flames.
- Don’t turn on any radio transmitters.
- Beware of static electricity build-up.
For more details, see this web page on fuel safety basics.
2.) Note that some later-model vehicles have “anti-siphoning” filler necks on their gas tanks. Check for this before you head for the boonies.
3.) Cover any exposed electrical connections with tape or heat shrink tubing, to avoid sparks or shorting.
4.) Transferring fuel with such a rig is best done as a two-man operation: One man inside the vehicle to keep an eye on your vehicle’s gas gauge and flip the switch (or pull the plug), and another man outside to handle the hoses and eyeball the filler necks,
Note: It is not just an expensive waste to spill gas on the ground. It is also toxic and a fire hazard!
By coincidence, soon after I wrote the first draft of my letter reply, I got an e-mail forwarded by Alfie Omega, a regular over at the outstanding Alpha Rubicon website. There, “Pike” has plans for building a very similar fuel transfer pump rig. (I surmise that he had seen the same type that I had.) A couple of nice touches with his design that mine lacked are that the mounting board has a carrying handle slot cut into it, and there are hooks mounted all the way around the perimeter of the board, for hose and power cord stowage. But a couple of detractors: His photos show an on-off switch mounted to the board (which, as previously mentioned, could put it in proximity to gas vapors.) And I saw some exposed wiring terminals. If those terminals were touched by a metal object, they could cause a spark.
In conclusion: Plan ahead, design and build your “in-the-field pump” to last, and above all: be safe! – JWR
Read the full article here