How to Catch Flathead Catfish

Flatheads are just the biggest, toughest, and angriest fish in freshwater. They’ve got shoulders like a pro wrestler, a cavernous mouth with jaws like a pit bull, and the cheerful attitude of a grizzly bear with a toothache. Both the bane and obsession of catfish noodlers across the country, flatheads tend to live in the deepest, darkest holes in the rivers and lakes they swim in, guarding their lairs like angry trolls. Catching flatheads on conventional gear can be a serious trial for the uninitiated, yet when you have the right setup and fish in the right places, it’s a challenge you can meet head-on.

Fishing for flatheads calls for some heavy gear. The fish are strong as an ox and when hooked, they tend to railroad anglers by hurling themselves back into the logs, boulders, and underwater brush from whence they came. Being able to stop them is key, so a heavy-action rod strung with 30- to 50-pound braided line is the absolute minimum, though as flatheads aren’t gear-shy, you wouldn’t be under-gunned fishing with 80- or even 100-pound test line.

Unlike other catfish species, which are scent feeders and more than willing to eat stinky baits like chicken livers, rotten worms, and even soap, flatheads are predators. With their big mouth and bad attitude, flatheads can and will engulf all manner of creatures. From panfish and perch to bass and frogs to turtles—if it swims and shares the water with them, flatheads will try and eat it—so you should adjust your baits accordingly. Large shiners and minnows are popular and will definitely catch you a couple fish, but if you want to catch a real monster flathead, your bait should be as big as their appetite. Try catching and using your own large live baits like 8- to 10-inch suckers, large bullhead, bluegill, or even a medium-sized bass (where legal). You can also have decent luck using large pieces of fresh cut-bait, but most flathead anglers believe the livelier the bait, the better.

Rig your baits with a large, strong 2/0 to 6/0 circle hook that won’t bend or break when hooked to a big cat. In addition to the hooks, you’re also going to want a selection of casting weights, some heavy-duty barrel swivels, and a large landing net, gaff, or even a fish tailer, especially if you’re fishing solo. A pair of gloves can also be handy for making sure you can get a good grip on a pissed-off flathead, as will a short length of rope that you can slip through its gills if you’re planning on bringing it home for dinner.

Flatheads can survive and thrive in a variety of different water bodies and water conditions. They can be found almost everywhere, from small clear streams to muddy creeks to massive rivers as well as lakes and reservoirs. This can make finding flatheads a substantial challenge as they occupy different areas in different environments and tend to migrate to different areas depending on water temperatures and available food sources. However, there are some general areas to look for flatheads in different lakes and rivers that are almost guaranteed to be holding a few hungry fish all year long.

In rivers and streams, flatheads like structure. Boulders are good, but deadfall logs, beaver dams, and brush piles are even better. Look for these woody areas on the outer bends of rivers, paying particular attention to any that are immediately adjacent to drop-offs and/or have deeper water upstream of them. Flatheads will cram themselves into these patches of cover in the daylight and then move out into the deeper water to feed at sundown.

When fishing for flatheads in lakes and reservoirs, your best bet is to fish along drop-offs. The bottom of dams, steep slopes along rock walls, the ends of piers and bases of bridges, as well as the points of islands are all fantastic flathead spots. You can also find them in shallower water along sand and gravel bars that are adjacent to deeper water, especially during the evening or when fishing during a cold front.

There are only two real tactics for flathead fishing: soaking your bait on the bottom or letting it drift on the surface. Both methods are easy to rig up, and both can be equally effective depending on the waterway you are fishing and the mood of the fish themselves. However, while the setup may seem simple enough, the exact rigging and placement of your baits are crucial and need to be exact if you want to have any success.

When fishing along the bottom, you’re going to want to set up your baits so that they can swim freely just above the bottom. To do this, you’re going to first want to slide a heavy one- to four-ounce casting weight onto your line that will hold the bait in place and prevent it from freely swimming, causing it to struggle and kick. Next, tie on a stout barrel swivel and then add 12 to 20 inches of 25- to 30-pound test line to the other end and then tie on your hook and bait. Hook your bait through its lip and out through its nostril and you’ll be ready to fish.

If you’re fishing the bottom of a river, you’re going to want to cast your line just upstream of your targeted piece of structure, either directly above or across from it, so that your bait lands along the edge of the deeper water. This will allow your bait to freely swim and dangle just above the drop-off. Flatheads tend to feed up, so when they’re cruising along the bottom and glance up to see your bait struggling above their heads, they won’t be able to resist coming up to get it.

In a lake or reservoir, you’re going to want to drop your baits along the shelf of drop-offs. Using the same setup, cast your line either out from or along the edge of the drop, so that it comes to rest in the center of the slope. It can be a tricky thing to do, especially along a steep drop-off. However, as with river fishing, this will allow your bait to hang and struggle tantalizingly above the patrolling flatheads, triggering them to rise to the occasion.

When fishing in shallower water from three to five feet deep without any visible structure, you’re going to want to keep your baits along the surface of the water. This is an especially effective tactic when targeting big flatheads at night when the big fish are moving into and hunting in the shallows. The best and most successful way to do this is by rigging your bait beneath a large float or bobber.

Start your float rig by clipping a bobber to your line, leaving about a foot of dangling tag end. Next, tie on a barrel swivel and then clip on a small split shot to the line just above the swivel to ensure that your bait will hang vertically in the water. Then tie on a length of line to the other end of the swivel that’s about 6 to 8 inches shorter than the depth of the water you’re fishing and tie on your hook. Once this is done, add your bait by hooking it through the back just below its dorsal fin, being careful not to break its spine, and you’ll be ready to go. It should be noted that you’re going to want to use an extremely large bobber that your live bait can’t pull under but only tow around, ensuring that any bobber downs are only caused by an attacking flathead.

There’s something about hooking into a big flathead catfish that’s just different. It’s less like fighting a fish and more like getting into a barnstorming, bare-knuckle brawl. You hang on for all your worth as the fish plunges and runs, shaking its head and turning its body into the current with so much power your line almost starts to sing. Then, slowly, like a boxer in the latter rounds, its struggles become weaker, and suddenly, you find yourself pulling a giant, pig-eyed monster from the depths and into your hands.

Landing a big flathead is an accomplishment, one that leaves you changed. For when you’ve defeated the roughest, strongest, and meanest fish in freshwater, you’re the heavyweight champ. A title holder who is ready to step up and take on all other fishy challengers, big or small, to find out how tough they really are.

Feature image via WikiCommons.