Gunner Quinn
(Continued from Part 2.)
We will also need a narrow flat file, preferably one with a smooth side so as not to dull the chain teeth. This file is need to set the rakers for the depth of cut. A raker gauge is expensive, but you will need at first to help make sure than enough material is removed to lower the raker height and allow the teeth to take a big enough bite of the wood to cut efficiently. If you file the raker too low, then the chain will cut too aggressively and may slow the saw engine down and lower its RPM to a point that the motor does not have enough horsepower to cut. A symptom of when the rakers need to be filed is when the teeth are very sharp, yet a fast-running saw cuts slowly.
JWR Adds: There are dozens of videos on YouTube that show how to sharpen chains. The websites of all of the major chainsaw makers also have some good advice, For example:
Using Sawdust as a Gauge
Always pay attention to the size or texture of the sawdust being created by the saw. Examine it when a new and perfectly sharpened chain is used. The sawdust will be not dust, but instead flakes. If the flakes of wood being removed are smaller than when the chain is at is sharpest, then the chain needs to be sharpened. It is best to sharpen or put a fine edge on the chain teeth after each tank of fuel is consumed.
As a final note about files: Swiss-made files are the best. Avoid buying the rest they do not cut chain nearly as fast nor do they last as long. If a file is not marked “Made in Switzerland”, then I do not recommend that you buy it.
Fuel for Chainsaws
While the discussion is primarily about keeping chainsaws running and choosing a chainsaw supported by a deep spare parts inventory, we should perhaps first look at the fuels and fuel storage techniques that I believe could keep chainsaw in operation up to 10 years at the extreme. If there will be no resupply of fresh fuel for chainsaw after a 3 to 10 year period elapses, then of course we would have to use other means to cut wood. The article that discusses a long-term fuel supply for chainsaws is found here:
Chainsaw Fuels for Long-Term Storage, by Tunnel Rabbit
A related article that provides other information about gasoline fuel storage can also be useful. I’ve used some of the techniques in this article on my own saws using well-aged fuels in chainsaws.
Gasoline Types and Long Term Storage, by Tunnel Rabbit
How Much Gasoline?
I recommend no less than five gallons of chainsaw fuel for the average house per winter season. There are too many variables to predict the exact amount needed if the person does not now cut their own wood and know from first-hand experience. This rough estimate does not include wood needed for cooking during warmer seasons. Hopefully, five gallons is more than enough, if not too much, and certainly not a tad too little. If in doubt, then buy more. This estimate does not include gas for a log splitter.
If you can afford the best fuel that will be stored at a minimum guaranteed length of time by the manufacturer of five years, then buy an engineered fuel by Trufuel at a big box store in metal gallon cans. To save money on a fuel supply, first use your supply of non-ethanol premium automotive gasoline or better yet, Aviation gas, aka AVGAS 101LL, and reserve the expensive engineered fuel for the later years of your long-term chainsaw fuel plan.
Two Cycle Oil Additives
Two-cycle fuel-mixing oil will also be needed. Get plenty, but be sure it is rated for chainsaws and not water-cooled two-cycle engines or TW3. We can not afford to make a mistake here so get the best name brand if necessary. This will also be a great barter item, so buy it in small bottles. Synthetic is best for lean 50:1 mixtures, but the less expensive regular “dino”-based (petroleum) fuel mixing oil is good enough if we re-tune the carburetor. While is cheaper to buy the larger bottles, for those new to saws, it is better portion control and better for inventory purposes to buy the small bottles intended for one gallon or 2.5 gallons of gasoline.
JWR Adds: Two-cycle mixing oil has always had a prominent place on my “Lists of Lists.” Buy a lot of it! I agree that is an ideal barter item. While bar lubricating oil can easily replaced with a variety of substitutes, there is no adequate substitute for proper 2-cycle oil. Using almost anything else will greatly shorten the working life of your chainsaw engine!
The articles about gasoline go into much greater detail, but I will add that following the manufacturer recommendations are best for the longevity of the saw. To further extend the life of the saw adjust the wide open throttle mixture screw so that the saw does not run at its top potential RPM. Slow it down a tad and just where a bit of smoke is generated in the exhaust. This ensures that it is not running to lean and hot, and this adjustment makes sure that a low octane level that occurs in aged stored fuel is not too low that it damages the saw. The manufacturer generally recommends a minimum octane rating of 91 to avoid damaging the saw. We can compensate for the lower octane rating of fuels with this adjustment.
Bar Lubricating Oil
I use a rule of thumb that applies to old saws that typically use more bar oil to keep a chain well-oiled. The ratio of fuel to one gallon of bar oil is two to one. For every two gallons of stored fuel, one gallon of bar oil is needed. Do not use motor oil as bar oil unless it is sub-zero temperatures, or you are out of other bar oil.
If a chainsaw’s oil pump does not work, it is possible to keep a bar and chain well-oiled by filling a one-gallon paint can for short bars or a large pail for 24-inch bars so that the bar can be intermittently dipped directly into this oil and over-lubricate it. This messy technique compensates for the lack of viscosity and bar oil properties that make oil stay on the bar. Be careful to dip the bar after each long cut to avoid wearing out the bar.
Have at least one replacement bar for each saw, and learn how to use a file to clean up a worn bar. See, for example: Chainsaw Bar Filing 101.
A good chainsaw bar oil substitute is 80- to 90-weight (or heavier) automotive gear oil. The heavier 140-weight gear oil can be cut with motor oil to extend your gear oil supply. In the summer do not add motor oil. But in the winter, cut the gear oil so that it will flow at the cold temperatures at the time of its use. Gear oil is usually more expensive than bar oil and of much higher quality. It has lubrication characteristics that exceed the performance of modern bar oils. This is what I primarily stock, but only because I got it on sale years ago when it was dirt cheap.
Spare Parts for Early Model Saws
It is harder to find parts for the earlier generations of all saws, so it is best to standardize on the most popular brand where parts for their earlier models are easier to find relative to the second or their most popular saw. While I can still find and buy saw parts for early 1970s Husqvarna or Jonsered saws that are becoming collectible, the price is high if there is a part that is found.
As a cautionary note, the longevity of a saw is measured in both hours of operation, operating conditions, and time in storage. Extended time in storage means that polymer or rubber seals and gas delivery lines and electrical insulation dry out and fail in storage. The gas line can easily be replaced. But the other critical parts mentioned are not as easily replaced.
I love the old Jonsered chainsaw that is in my garage. It is built like a tank and in very good condition, and it speaks better Swedish than I do. While it is not too difficult to find, for example, a replacement chain at a lower retail price, finding a carburetor kit, igniter, or oil pump would be exceedingly difficult. The aftermarket that is now dominated by inexpensive Chinese clone parts of the most popular brand is not an option for vintage or collectible saws.
(To be concluded tomorrow, in Part 4.)
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