(Continued from Part 1.)
Transmission
The truck has a three-speed automatic transmission with a manual 4×4 transfer case. As much as I love driving a standard, manual transmission, the ease and comfort of an automatic is preferred for the places we go, and how we use the truck. Standard vs. automatic transmission is completely personal preference. Both have advantages and disadvantages. Use what works best for you and your lifestyle. I keep a quart of Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) in the truck box at all times.
Dump bed and Greaseable Fittings
All of the hydraulic lines are original from when my grandfather had the dump bed installed. There are a couple of small leaks, so on occassion, I top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir and grease the zerks to help the bed raise as high as possible.
I’ve never had a grease fitting (zerk) break. In case it ever happens, I bought a kit of assorted fittings. The fittings are removed and replaced with a small box end wrench. When it comes to applying grease to fittings, purchase a decent grease gun, and the appropriate grease for your application. There are several different styles of grease guns, straight grip, pistol grip, automatic, etc. It’s not a bad idea to have a couple of different grease guns, each loaded with different grease. For my older vehicles, I use an all-purpose automotive/marine grease. It’s not too thick, and it does not get runny when it gets hot.
I have not found one type/brand of hydraulic fluid that I prefer over another. In fact, I get all my hydraulic fluid for free. Every so often, I go to the big box hardware stores after their team assembles their gas-powered machinery, like generators and log splitters. Each piece of machinery comes with a quart or two engine oil and, if needed, hydraulic fluid, sometimes in gallon jugs. Some stores are prohibited from selling the fluids, so they put the spare fluids in a box with a free sign.
On one occasion, I brought home several gallons of chainsaw bar oil, 50:1 mix, synthetic engine oil and hydraulic fluid. (On a side note: The big box stores also give away ripped bags in the garden section. I have filled the back of my truck with potting soil, steer manure and wood chips.) Learn the schedule of your local big box store and fill a garage shelf with the fluids you use. In an emergency, I believe fluids will be worth their weight in gold.
Air and Fuel System
I always install a transparent plastic inline fuel filter in the fuel line between the fuel pump and the carburetor. I prefer the clear filters because you can see when the filter needs to be replaced, and also because you can use the visible filter as a gauge if you are out of gas. The clear filter can also be used to diagnose a bad fuel pump. If you are certain the tank has a sufficient amount of fuel, and try to start the car, but the filter is dry and does not fill, you likely need to replace the fuel pump. Before replacing the fuel pump, pour a little mixed gas down the carburetor. If the engine starts and momentarily runs, but the fuel filter does not fill with fuel from the fuel pump, then the fuel pump is likely bad.
Some fuel pumps slide right in, while others take a little effort and muscle. I like to put a few dabs of gasket silicon on the fuel pump followed by the gasket. I let the gasket slightly adhere to the silicone before I press it on the block. I also put the bolts through the fuel pump to ensure the gasket is lined up properly. On more than one occasion, I have thought about installing an electric fuel pump and deleting the mechanical, but that would make my truck vulnerable to EMP. With older vehicles, always keep a spare fuel pump, and the tools to install it, somewhere in the car.
In addition to keeping spare fuel filters, and a fuel pump, on hand, I also keep several feet of rubber fuel line and spare hose clamps. Hose clamps with screws can/will strip out over time, so I only use spring clamps that require pliers to open.
Earlier, I mentioned using mixed gas to prime a carburetor. A couple years ago, I started using mixed gas, the same as I use in my chainsaws, because the oil helps lubricate the dry carburetor as well as prime it. I still use starter fluid on occasion, but I try to only use mixed fuel. Starter fluid dries extremely quickly, whereas mixed gas lasts a little longer before evaporating.
Shortly after I got the truck running and took it from the family ranch to my house, the original carburetor quit working. The accelerator pump inside was bad, which would not allow me to accelerate. I went to the local parts store, ordered a rebuilt, bolt on carburetor and installed it. This rebuilt carburetor also had a bad accelerator pump, even though it had all brand-new parts. I took it back to the store, order another carburetor, which came in a few days later, and, again, installed it. This time, after installation, the truck worked flawlessly. I had never had an issue with rebuilt parts before that day, and have not had an issue since. The frequent problem I run into with most aftermarket “replacement” parts that claim to be an exact, drop in fit, are they usually require some sort of alteration to fit properly.
Crankcase Oil
I left the oiling system on the truck alone. The only thing I changed was the old oil pan drain plug. I replaced it with a magnetic plug. The new plug threads into the oil pan, exactly like the original, and will help collect any metallic parts in the oil and keep them from circulating through the oiling system.
Make sure you conduct regular oil changes. Older vehicles do not blast codes/lights when your oil needs changing, so it is up to you to schedule regular maintenance.
When installing a new oil filter, pour fresh oil into the filter, then take your finger and rub a little oil on the rubber seal, and along the threads. Screw it onto the engine and ensure it is only hand tight. There is no need to overtighten an oil filter.
Used motor oil can be used as chainsaw bar oil, added to DIY weed killer, or given to someone who turns it into fuel for a mechanical diesel engine. Costco typically has great deals on bulk oil. I try to keep at least one, if not two, complete oil changes, filters included, on hand for each of my vehicles.
Brakes
I have never liked working on brakes, so I cannot give much advice to working on them. Make sure you know what you’re doing, or take it to someone who does. I always keep a small jug of brake fluid in the truck box in case of an emergency.
Radiator
I have been fortunate with the factory radiator in the Silverado. I have never had any leaks. Do not ever spray water on a hot radiator. Cold water on a hot radiator can warp, bend and destroy it. I learned that lesson the hard way with my first car after the radiator was freshly rebuilt. If you drive to a car wash, just be careful when spraying around the outside of the radiator.
It is bulky, but it’s a good idea to keep extra coolant in your vehicle. DO NOT mix different-colored radiator fluid. If the fluid in your radiator is green, then only add green.
Tires
I always have a can of Fix a Flat on hand, as well as a tire plug kit and a portable air compressor. I have found these little compressors at yard sales inexpensively because the cigarette lighter plug is broken. For a couple of dollars, I replaced the broken plug with inexpensive alligator clips and rewired the unit so that I can power it directly from the vehicle’s battery terminals.
The day before I was set to drive the truck to my house far from the family ranch, I was checking it for any last-minute issues I may have overlooked. When I was checking the wheels, I noticed several of the glued-on wheel weights had fallen off. This was my first experience with wheel weights using adhesive glue. I was not impressed and extremely frustrated since I had just had the tires mounted and balanced that morning. I took the wheels off and headed back to town to have them fixed and rebalanced properly, with new weights.
Exhaust
The absolute worst thing for a car is to let it sit for any length of time. Gaskets get old and dried out, gas goes bad, moving parts do not get oiled/lubed and rodents move in and start making their home out of your interior. About two months ago, my truck had a dead battery from trying to start the engine. Little did I know, one of my kids had been in the truck and flipped the gas tank selector switch to the tank I do not currently have hooked up. Before I knew the switch was on the wrong tank, I poured a little mixed gas down the carburetor and turned the key, while pumping the gas pedal. Each time I did this, the engine ran for a short time and then died.
Thinking the brand new fuel pump was bad, I repeated this several times. Once I realized the switch was on the wrong tank, the battery was dead. I flipped the switch to the correct tank, hooked up the jumper box to the battery and primed the carburetor once again. Unfortunately, enough unburned fuel had made its way into the exhaust system, that when I finally turned the key and the engine stayed running, the fuel ignited and exploded. It was so loud, I thought someone had fired a shotgun behind me. I crawled under the truck and realized the muffler had completely imploded. It looked as if a cannonball had been shot through it.
I lifted the truck bed, took a Sawzall and cut both mufflers off. Once the exploded muffler was off, I looked inside. There was a rodent condominium inside the muffler. Between that blockage and the unburned fuel, there was no chance of the muffler lasting very long. Since the exhaust is now unrestricted, the truck runs much better. Sometime soon, I will weld on a set of mufflers, but for the meantime, I am enjoying the throaty growl of American muscle!
(To be concluded tomorrow, in Part 3.)
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